I suppose we should start referring to this colour as “Salicutti Red” as it is a rather scarce hue in today’s market of monster Brunelli, tainted with every possible international grape varietal and even grapes imported from the South. Italian wine (or Politics for that matter!) has never been what one could refer to as an “exact science,” however here at Salicutti it is in fact just that. Pure Sangiovese, biodynamically farmed on 4 hectares and nothing more. Just a whole lotta blood, sweat, tears, and strange Tea preparations. At any rate, I gladly take pause to admire this typical colour for this reason; the classic style had been largely replaced by mammoth, extracted, un-typical examples geared toward the “Big Cab” drinkers of America and the Bordeaux drinkers of Europe for too long a period. Now, standing before a second renaissance in Montalcino, the tastes are returning to their roots. To the most magnificent Sangiovese on the planet; without manipulation and unapologetically raw. And Salicutti was already on this tip long before the wave began to break.

Though considered by most to be an inferior vintage to 2012, quite the contrary occurred at Salicutti, and simply put, the proof is in the punch. The nose is a shade or two deeper than the 2012, hinting at exactly what the nose delivers. Darker, spicier and more powerful than the previous, this nose is even more present and accessible despite its enormous potential.

With a Welter-weight belt around its hips this lean mean, muscular Brunello machine sits on the palate like a champion-fight weigh-in. Not an ounce of fat on its frame, this puppy comes out of the corner swinging from the second it hits the palate. Concentrated yet with surgical focus, a veritable laser beam on the palate somehow with a bountiful weight which stays incredibly light on its feet. Dark, brooding, yet delicious, it’s got a long life ahead but one can enjoy it now without any ill conscience. In fact, it’s just bloody good at the moment whether you consider it baby seal-clubbing or otherwise. Chalk it up to guilty pleasure. With a gigantic finish, the layers peel off one by one, revealing a core of almost bitter amaro-like spices. Dark morello cherries rolled in a savoury dry-rub abound, sprinkled with fresh sage, rosemary, lavender and a touch of cherry wood. The lightly smokey berry notes and almost leafy tannins reminiscent of a Royal Oolong tea. A brulée-like caramelisation rounds out the impossibly integrated oak as to merely whisper its presence.

This is far from what many critics would refer to as a “Blockbuster Brunello,” and I mean that in the most positive way imaginable. Because Brunelli shouldn’t be relegated to Jon Woo film pyrotechnics and banal chase-scenes. Like good conversation, so too should Brunello be intellectual, engaging, and leave you wondering where the time went rather than when the hell you can order a bottle of something else. But if its brilliant conversation you’re searching for you’ve certainly found it in this bottle. And despite its burly alcohol, if it’s just a few crude jokes over a checkered table cloth in a greasy red sauce joint you’re feeling like, then kindly reach for the Fiasco and save this one for a better time.

Autor: Justin Leone