Fascinatingly enough, the progression from 2010 through 2009 to 2008 follows about the same path as three different trans-continental flights. The wines are literally worlds apart, though of course sharing the quintessence of what makes Salicutti so unique amongst the Brunelli. The nose here is immediately denser and darker rather than bright and hi-beamed like the 2009. Secondary notes are just beginning to emerge, the cherry fruit dipping deeper into sultry damson plumb and even more brooding fig undertones. A hint of warm asphalt creeps in beneath old mahogany furniture; well oiled and vanilla-bean scented. Fresh cotton sheets left in the sun to dry mingle with a bouquet of purple violets, freesia and hyacinth on the end table next to a bowl of ripe morello cherries.

Perfectly ripe, round, utterly delectable fruit floods the palate and lingers through a lengthy finish. This Brunello is no princess, but rather smoothly operating machine. A top-tuned athlete approaching full gallop but not quite there yet, muscles rippling in preparation. An athlete and a scholar however, this is currently a rather intellectual moment for this wine as its journey from rambunctious youth to ambitious young professional begins to unfold. My gut feeling is that in 5 years time this ambitious youngster will have made partner in the firm and earned its corner office. And at least another 5 years to follow should provide peak potability and still drink beautifully into its retirement for the following handful of years thereafter. This was by no means an easy vintage, making quality throughout Montalcino somewhat spotty at best. And considering this wine’s structure which brushes with perfection, the impeccable tannin texture and harmonious acidity, not to mention the unbridled deliciousness of the fruit, this is undoubtedly one of the great victories of the vintage.

Autor: Justin Leone